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September 18
We arrived in Baghdad. It took 13 hours from Narita to Amsterdam, 4 hours for transit and 5 hours to Amman, Jordan from Amsterdam. We took a nap and drove for 11 hours. My team members are Makiko Iwata(camera), Taku Morisumi(photo journarist) and myself.There are a lot of people walking at a park near our hotel. Baghdad was a lot different than what I imagined.
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September 19
We went to the ministry of information office to apply for permission to film the movie. Journalists from all over the world were waiting to get permission just like us. We were told to go to a press center. All journalists have to go through this. However, they charged us $150/day and TV coverage is for $750/day! We tried to get some discount by telling them that we were freelance, but that scared guides from the ministry of information. Because they make a living on bribe from journalists, so they don't want to guide poor journalists.
There is no equipment in this press center. There is no telephone, no fax, no copy machine, only an old sofa in the press center. We were going to use an AP's phone, but it was broken...
Finally we found a guide for a half day, so we left there to go to a hospital. A childhood leukemia ward of the hospital had better facilities than 4 years ago, but there was still not enough medication.
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September 20
We had to wait for a long time in the press center because we didnÕt have a guide. There were not enough guides for journalists. The guide we finally found was a small middle aged man called Abbass. First thing he asked us was Òhow much can you pay?Ó Actually, he asked this question 3 or 4 times a day, like this Òwell, I hope you still remember that I have small children and a family to support.Ó Moreover, he has diabetes and that made us even harder to do our job. He told us he had to take a nap everyday because of his disease. We just had to do whatever he said. If he quit being our guide, we didnÕt know when we could get another. However, it turned out a good thing for us too. We realized that it was too hot (40digrees) to go outside during the daytime.
We went to an area mosque. The guide told us not to take pictures of this or that.
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September 20
We took a HIV test which is compulsory for all foreigners who plan to stay more than 10days. Our visa allows us to stay up to 10days. So we have to apply for visa extension. This was very complicated and took a whole day.
We went the press center boss to get permission to go to Basra. They gave us permission pretty quick since we already had a guide so we were able to leave on the 21st. But we still had to wait till tomorrow at noon to receive our visa.
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September 21
Finally we left Baghdad to Basra. It took 5 days just to get to Basra.
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September 22
We met Mustafa, who has been fighting leukemia, and his father. A doctor of the pediatric ward asked them if we could film them. After they accepted, we learned that their village is 100km from Basra. We will travel back and forth between Basra and their village as of tomorrow.
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